The new skins for the HS were not correct. Van's had bent them offset and to an angle to the correct bend line. They are sending new skins, but it makes me wonder if they have any quality control at all "over there".
Monday, March 31, 2008
Main spar VS and rudder
Dimpled and countersunk the main spar assembly for the VS. Primed and riveted together. Had to use the rivet gun for the rivets closest to the hinges. Dimpled and primed the rudder skin and stiffeners, ready for riveting.
The new skins for the HS were not correct. Van's had bent them offset and to an angle to the correct bend line. They are sending new skins, but it makes me wonder if they have any quality control at all "over there".
The new skins for the HS were not correct. Van's had bent them offset and to an angle to the correct bend line. They are sending new skins, but it makes me wonder if they have any quality control at all "over there".
Wednesday, March 19, 2008
P05 Primer, new parts and HS-406 problem
The new parts have arrived, and they all look to be in perfect condition. Removed the HS-407 and fitted the new HS-407 that came with the damaged parts.
The HS-406 spar problem is apperently known by Van's. The problem is that the forward part of the HS-406 is too narrow, so it will not fit the skin and the two forward most rivets on each side should be disregarded. According to Van's the strength at that area is in the curvature of the skin, not the spar. If the skin is to be fitted "flush" over the ribs, the cord of the tip on the HS will be too small (I did this). If the tip is to be the correct dimension, the HS-406 will not fit, and this is the correct way to do it (who said building a RV-4 was easy? :-) ). I don't think having the first 2-3 inches of the HS-406 unriveted and loose will look good, so I will cut the spar and insert an extension so the spar fits all the way.
Tried the P05 Strontium Chromate epoxy primer for the first time today on the rudder strengteners and the new HS-407. Compared with the WG6650 etch primer, the P05 applies thinner and is easier to spray. It is also less messy because I only need a very thin layer, and the odour is not nearly as strong and "etchy" as the etch primer (I use proper mask, gogles and suit). I guess the etch primer makes much more fumes than the epoxy primer, but the Strontium Chromate is not exactly healthy either. I found out the messy way that the epoxy hardener eats up my plastic cups I use to mix the primer in, so I have to get some other cups with different kind of plastic. The colour of the P05 is "Strontium Chromate Yellow", sort of very bright yellow lime green (more yellow than what it appears like on the photo where the old WG6650 primed rib is compared with the P05 primed rib. The WG6650 looks more green than what it appears like on the photo).
I also tried the Derinoxalu. It is an acid cleaner of some sort and is to be used before the P05. It probably burns away all traces of fat and silicone (and everything else judging by the smell), but I didn't see much etching on the alu.
The HS-406 spar problem is apperently known by Van's. The problem is that the forward part of the HS-406 is too narrow, so it will not fit the skin and the two forward most rivets on each side should be disregarded. According to Van's the strength at that area is in the curvature of the skin, not the spar. If the skin is to be fitted "flush" over the ribs, the cord of the tip on the HS will be too small (I did this). If the tip is to be the correct dimension, the HS-406 will not fit, and this is the correct way to do it (who said building a RV-4 was easy? :-) ). I don't think having the first 2-3 inches of the HS-406 unriveted and loose will look good, so I will cut the spar and insert an extension so the spar fits all the way.
Tried the P05 Strontium Chromate epoxy primer for the first time today on the rudder strengteners and the new HS-407. Compared with the WG6650 etch primer, the P05 applies thinner and is easier to spray. It is also less messy because I only need a very thin layer, and the odour is not nearly as strong and "etchy" as the etch primer (I use proper mask, gogles and suit). I guess the etch primer makes much more fumes than the epoxy primer, but the Strontium Chromate is not exactly healthy either. I found out the messy way that the epoxy hardener eats up my plastic cups I use to mix the primer in, so I have to get some other cups with different kind of plastic. The colour of the P05 is "Strontium Chromate Yellow", sort of very bright yellow lime green (more yellow than what it appears like on the photo where the old WG6650 primed rib is compared with the P05 primed rib. The WG6650 looks more green than what it appears like on the photo).
I also tried the Derinoxalu. It is an acid cleaner of some sort and is to be used before the P05. It probably burns away all traces of fat and silicone (and everything else judging by the smell), but I didn't see much etching on the alu.
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