Finished bucking the skeleton

Did the last few rivets on the skeleton of the HS. Had to drill out two rivets that were bad, but it is remarkable how fast one learn using the rivet gun. Also riveted on the 404 spars, and this results in using pop-rivets on the 407 spar/skin interface. Pop rivets doesn't look so nice as flush solid rivets, but it will be easier to get it properly done, nice and straight and good riveting. I think I will chose that path as a general rule in the future as well - higher probability of succeding with a good solution the first time before beauty, he he.

Found out that the HS-410 was a mm or so too large in the ends so it would interfere with the skin. Should have seen this long ago, but didn't, so had to file down the ends, polish and prime (with Zinc Chromate).

Bucking for the first time

Started to rivet together the skeleton and found out that some of the rivets must be bucked on because the rivet hand press just did not fit. Did some practicing on scrap metal.

Clamps for the HS

Made clamps to use when skinning the HS, 3 pieces. Hmm, looking at them, the largest looks a bit too large...

Preparing to skin the HS

Temporary hinges are installed in the rig as well as a new member for the skinning. Read through the skinning procedure, but how to hit the center of the ribs and at the same time between the fluting, is still a bit of a puzle. I also have to decide if I should dimple or countersink.

A lot of thinking to do and decisions to make. In the mean time I have to make some wooden clamps and rivet together the skeleton.

The P05 Strontium Chromate epoxy primer is also ordered and should come within a couple of weeks. It is yellow in color.

HS ribs primed

Deburred and primed the ribs for the HS. Fixed the sligthly conical shaped HS-406 by strightening out the ribs. The HS-406 ribs had an oval shape when looking from top to bottom making them point outward when riveted on to the spar. Just by making them straight made them parallel by approximately 1 mm.

Now I have to decide if the HS-407 spars are to be riveted on now or later - solid flush rivets or pulled rivets on the skin on the HS-404, hmmm ....

HS skeleton ready for deburring and priming

Lots of hard to reach drilling and difficult alignments (3 pieces needs to be aligned simultaneously horiz, vert and in angle before drilling). Still need to check the angle of the 406 ribs, they shall be perpendicular to the aft spar and parallel, but no tolerances are given. Mine have a slight angle outward so I may have to make new flanges on the fwd spar, but when the 406 ribs are not a perfect shape, and I do not know the tolerances, this may be unnecessary?.

HS skeleton

The skeleton is coming together. Lots of very hard to reach drilling. The angle drill from Averytools comes in handy.

Riveting hinge brackets on HS

Hinge brackets are riveted in place. Laid out marks for rivets on the ribs for fluting.

Positioning and drilling hinge brackets

Positioned and drilled the hinge brackets on the HS. Used a nylon wire (fishing line) to align the brackets. Also used the Sioux pneumatic drill for the first time, the battery drill was too big.

Drilling and riveting the main hinge on HS

Riveting rear spar on HS

Rear spar on the HS is riveted together. Used the squizer. Just placed the hinges for the elevator to see what it will look like, they are next.

Riveting front spar on HS

Started riveting with the manual squizer. The front spar is done, have to finish the rear spar.

Priming

Had a can of Zinc Chromate laying around, so I decided to give the HS-409 a thin layer of the stuff on top of the WG6650, giving them a real chemical corrosion protection, since it is non alclad and will be almost like an external surface. The surface of the Zinc Chromate is semi gloss while the WG6650 is matt, which will make it very difficult to remove grease and oil.

I will order some P05 (Strontium Chromate epoxy) and Derinoxal. According to the conversation I had today with a representative from the factory (Monopol in France), that is what is used on airplanes - period. It will take some 4-6 weeks to arrive, so I will use what I have for now. Untill I get the real stuff I will use WG6650 on all parts and a thin coating of Zinc Chromate on some places. (If this actually is better than bare alclad and zinc chromate along contact lines, I don't know).

Priming spars for HS

Parts for the front and aft spar on the HS were primed this evening. The primer used was the WG6650 Wash Primer from Monopol.

Front spar on HS, number 2

This time I got it right with the new parts. The 8 degree bends also became much strighter and at the right place with the small break from Clas Ohlson. Using a mallet to create the bends, as described in the manual, works but is very inaccurate.

Regarding primer, I need some washing/etching thing before applying the WG 6650 wash primer. At Aunes Karosseri they have never heard of such a thing, but another car paint specialist could get some DuPont/Corlar 5717S Metal Conditioner. He could only get 6 l, and I have to purchase all of it because it is something they never use. When reading the technical manual of the 5717S, it is meant to be used on ferrous metals and some other. Aluminum is not mentioned, so I am not sure if this is the right product at all. Monopol in France say I should use something called DERINOXALU, but have not been able to get it yet.

Priming

Purchased a net at Biltema and put in on the primer table. Heard from Van's, the new parts will be here in a couple of days.

More primer

The wash primer, WG 6650 from Monopol, turns out to be one layer of several. Got in contact with the factory and the procedure for airplanes is:

• Clean with acid solution and water
• Apply WG 6650 Wash primer, one thin layer (10-15 micrometer dry)
• Apply P 05 Strontium Chromate Epoxy primer
• Top cote(s)

On the inside P 05 Strontium Chromate Epoxy is enough (no need for the wash primer). Air France and Eurocopter use this method and these products. The wash primer is used for other applications also (cars, trucks, boats), but with different epoxy primers on top depending on the application.

But, my RV is not going to fly several hours a day, seven days a week, year after year, and it is not going to fly shuttle traffic to oil installations in the North Sea year after year. On the other hand, my airport extends out into the sea, and according to technicians working there, it is a very corrosive environment. Tomorrow I am going to hear about price and availability of P 05, will se how it goes.

Still waiting for the new parts, it has been very quite from Van's.

Set up the primer booth more properly with a separate compressed air line with pressure regulator and water removal, purchased at Biltema. Built a primer table (235X53X75), only lack the chicken net. If the P 05 Strontium Chromate Epoxy is going to be used I will also need some more substantial ventilation than door/window, at least a fan.

The WG 6650 wash primer contains Zinc Oxide and some phosphates of some kind.

Primers

Got some wash primer from Monopol (Wash Primer WG 6650) from a local car body shop. I allso got a rattle can of "houshold" metal primer (Quick Universalgrunning from Scanox) which is an alkyd based primer with corrosion inhibitors (supposedly).

The wash primer is green and the other one is gray. SB means Scotch Brite has been used on that area. It is possible (but hard) to scratch both off with my nail on the area not scuffed with scotch brite. The area scuffed with scotch brite is much harder to scratch off. I have to use a knife or a sharp object and I take off just as much aluminum as I take off primer, so it is very tough. The "houshould" primer seem to be just as hard as the wash primer. Zinc oxide and some orthophosphate?? seems to be the active anticorrosive ingredients in both.

One major difference is that the wash primer has a smoother and more shiny surface, and the coating is thinner (the last thing could be me sprying).

Small problems

Did some mistakes on the front spar of the HS. Three of the holes connecting the spar and HS-410 were too close to the edge (1-2 mm max). Also two of the holes for the rib was drilled in the wrong positions resulting in edge problem. Although not neccesary according to more experienced people than me (including Van's), I decided to re-do the front spar. I am now waiting for new parts.

The priming problem has come back. It turns out that Zinc Chromate is not a legal substance anymore due to toxic reasons, and therefore is nowhere to get hold of. Right now etch primer from a local shop specializing in aluminium constructions is something to be investigated.

The storage room to be used for priming is painted white to get it as light as possible.

Deburred ribs

Deburred the ribs on the HS this evening.

Front spar on HS

Front spar on the HS is finished bent to 8 degrees, drilled and deburred.

Forward HS spar ready for drilling

The spars and HS-410 is cut, marked and clamped ready for drilling. Have to figure out which size drill first.

Received a mail from Van's about the rivets in the HS-409. They shall go in aft to fwd.

HS-410

HS-410 is cut to shape and deburred.

Shopped alot of clamps, hand saw, files and some other stuff at Biltema. Received some e-mails from the insurance agency. Still no solution there, but things are moving forward.

Fwd spar on the HS

My tech counsellor couldn't make it this evening, so I did some other stuff. I started on the front spar by drawing the cut lines on the spars and the HS-410. To finish the cuts I need a hand saw. I also need some more clamps and files, so tomorrow I have to go to Biltema - again.

I noticed that nowhere do the drawings or the manual specify that the HS-410 is to be made from the AS3-063X6X12 sheet, this has to be deduces from the available parts. When the house is literally packed with available parts, this should be specified properly. Another thing is that it is not specified if the rivets holding the aft spar and HS-409 together is to be riveted from fwd to aft or the other way around. This may not be important - or - it may be obvious - or - it may be obvious that it is not important... I don't know, so I have sent a mail to Van's.

Horizontal stab spar ready for priming

The parts for the horizontal spar are drilled, trimmed and deburred according to plans/instructions, ready for priming and riveting. This will be done tomorrow (priming at least).

I purchased a new press drill, the one from Biltema didn't really work as there were no way to lower the rpm without also lowering the torque. The new press drill was almost as cheap (probably Chinese made), but a totally different design, and worked very satisfactory for the bars in the horizontal stab.

I allso purchased a bench grinder for the Scotch Brite wheel, this was really usefull as well, several orders of magnitudes faster than sanding by hand.

Tiger Meet

Instead of building (Saterday), two of my boys, my father and I went to Ørland Air Force Base for the "Open Day" at the Tiger Meet. Tiger Meet is an annual training event for NATO fighter pilots. At the Open Day they show off their planes and flying skills for the general public.

The show consisted of lots of F-16 flights, single and formation. Formation flying with F-16s and a Mi-24. Mi-24 maneuvering capabilities and a breathtaking display of the F-18.

Just as interesting was the static display consisting of 20 someting airplanes with "Tiger camoflage", several helicopters and an E3A.

I had to smile when my 7 year old son entered the E3A and said; "Look at all the rivets". The all tigered up F-5 is the last one registered in Norway, and the Tiger Meet was the last time F-5 was used.

Priming solved and HS-409

HS-409 flange strips are filed and ready for drilling. I will postpone most other work untill monday when my tech counselor takes a visit to show me how to operate the vareous tools for best results, and how to prime the parts.

The priming headache has finally been solved. After a long conversation with my tech counselor on the phone I have decided to follow his advice for all internal parts:

• All parts will be alodined.
• Zinc chromate will be sprayed on from cans.
• MEK will be used to clean the parts.

This process is, according to my tech counselor, easy and a lot less messy than two component mixing and spraying. This is the method he uses when fixing damaged airplanes and restoring warbirds, and the corrosion protection is well documented through years of experience.

Tools arrived, more on primers

The tools from Averytools arrived today. These tools were efficiently and orderly packed, and the delivery went smooth, recommended!

Regarding primer, the epoxy option seems to be better and better. Stewart Systems uses Aeropicardie as an exclusive importer to Europe. Stewart Systems use a water based formulae, much less toxic than epoxy. An European importer seemed OK, but the prices will increase by at least 45% going through him compared with ordering directly from the USA. A quote for primers for the empennage only was 393 € ! I think that with 393 €, I can get enough epoxy primer for several RVs.

A very simple but hopefully functional drill press was bought at Biltema for 200 Kr (25€).

Unpacked and ready

The kit is now unpacked and all nuts and bolts are counted. The shop has received one more table and I have set up the structure to build wings and tail. The structure is made according to the drawings, but I used two 2x4 beams bolted together instead of 4x4 beams. I also got a proper sign on the door leading to the shop from the rest of my house :-)







The parts have now spread to three rooms (including the shop). I am now waiting for the tools from Averytools, a full RV builders tool kit. Somehow I had got the idea to shop for tools when needed as I build. This was of course is a very bad idea when everything has to be ordered from across the Atlantic, so today i ordered the tools that i could have ordered months ago. At least it leaves me with more time to study the drawings.

I am still confused about priming. It seems like the "correct" way is to use epoxy based primer. On the other hand, to have a house full of poisonous epoxy fumes simply cannot be good for living organisms. Hmm

I have contacted the insurance bureau and Van's about the damaged parts. Hopefully everything will turn out OK.